Britain gave the world some of the most important inventions in watchmaking — and then almost lost its watch industry entirely. Today, a dynamic group of British brands is bringing it back, combining design flair with Swiss or increasingly British manufacturing.
Britain's horological legacy
- John Harrison solved the "longitude problem" with his marine chronometers (H1–H4, 1730s–1760s), revolutionising navigation.
- Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement around 1755 — still used in virtually every mechanical watch.
- George Graham and Thomas Tompion made London the world centre of precision timekeeping in the 18th century.
- George Daniels invented the co-axial escapement, later industrialised by Omega.
By the 20th century, Swiss and American mass production overwhelmed British hand manufacture, and brands like Smiths — which made the watch Edmund Hillary wore on Everest in 1953 — eventually ceased production.
Christopher Ward
Founded in 2004 by three friends, Christopher Ward sells direct to consumers, keeping prices far below traditional Swiss brands for equivalent quality. Watches are made in Switzerland with its own design, and the brand has developed in-house movements such as the Calibre SH21 with a 120-hour power reserve. Popular models include the C60 Trident diver, C63 Sealander, The Twelve integrated-bracelet watch and the innovative Bel Canto chiming complication. Excellent value from about $900 to $5,000.
Bremont
Founded in 2002 by brothers Nick and Giles English, Bremont is known for aviation-inspired, extremely robust watches tested for ejection seats with Martin-Baker. It opened a manufacturing facility, The Wing, in Henley-on-Thames, and aims to increase British-made content. Models include the MBII, Supermarine divers and Terra Nova.
Other British brands
- Fears (Bristol) — revived 1846 brand with refined, vintage-inspired designs.
- Farer — colourful, playful Swiss-made watches with British design.
- Elliot Brown — rugged, outdoor tool watches.
- Pinion, Studio Underd0g, Marloe — design-led microbrands.
- Roger W. Smith (Isle of Man) — protégé of George Daniels, making a handful of watches per year entirely by hand; among the most sought-after independents in the world.
- Garrick and Charles Frodsham — traditional British artisanal watchmaking.
British brands at a glance
| Brand | Style | Typical price |
|---|---|---|
| Marloe / Pinion / Studio Underd0g | Design-led microbrands | $300–$2,000 |
| Christopher Ward | Divers, sports, value luxury | $900–$5,000 |
| Farer / Fears | Colourful or refined dress-sport | $1,200–$5,000 |
| Bremont | Aviation, military | $3,000–$15,000 |
| Roger W. Smith | Handmade haute horlogerie | Six figures |
FAQ
Is Christopher Ward a good brand?
Yes. It's widely respected for offering Swiss-made quality, good finishing and strong specifications at prices well below traditional retail brands.
Are British watches made in Britain?
Most British brands design in the UK and manufacture in Switzerland. A few, like Bremont and Roger W. Smith, have UK manufacturing, and the proportion is growing.
